best place to go in hawaii for the first time
Enjoy a warm welcome in the USA's pacific island paradise.
Aloha. Not only is Hawaii's most famous word used as a greeting, it also means love 7 land compassion. It's an apt expression, since most visitors fall in love at their first sight of the Aloha State.
Nearly every visitor will begin their Hawaiian adventure at the airport or cruise terminal of the state capital, Honolulu. This city of one million is the urban heart of Hawaii; seven times bigger than the next largest town with some threequarters of resident Hawaiians calling it home. Here you'll immediately spot a sea of Hawaiian shirts, the colourful clothing that has become the region's most famous export. Tourist shops have gaudy prints in abundance to make wearers look like a modern-day John Candy or Magnum PI, but most resident Hawaiians choose a more restrained version in which the design is printed on the inside of the fabric to create a more muted look.
On the western fringes of Honolulu is Pearl Harbor, the US naval base that was seared into history on 7 December 1941, "a date that will live in infamy" according to then-president Franklin Roosevelt. A surprise Japanese attack damaged all eight battleships anchored in the harbour and sank eight other ships. Countless ground installations and buildings were destroyed, and nearly 2,500 Americans were killed. All this before their country had even declared war.
Nearly eight decades on, the centrepiece of Pearl Harbor is the USS Arizona Memorial, a pontoon building that floats above the wreck of the only battleship not to be raised after the attack. Accessed by boat from the harbourside, the memorial is a moving tribute. A marble wall listing the names of the 1,177 victims who lost their lives when the ship sank, an opening in the floor overlooks the water above the ship’s decks. Occasional oil slicks often referred to as the “tears of the Arizona” are a poignant reminder that the USS Arizona still sits just a few metres below the surface, the last resting place of more than 1,100 servicemen whose bodies have never been recovered.
In 1999, USS Missouri the vessel on which a Japanese delegation surrendered in 1945 was moved to Pearl Harbor and berthed close to the Arizona memorial, meaning that the start and end of American involvement in World War II are commemorated in one place. Visitors are able to tour the Missouri, and also USS Bowfin, a 1940s submarine. Ford Island, in the middle of the harbour, is home to the Pacific Aviation Museum and a collection of restored fighter planes. Plan to spend a full day here if you wish to do Pearl Harbor justice.
With the history visited, it’s time to hit the beach. Conveniently, one of the best in the world is located just 19 kilometres (12 miles) away: Waikiki Beach. Within strolling distance of Downtown Honolulu, Waikiki is actually a series of eight distinct beaches of powder-soft white sand running for a couple of kilometres in front of the boardwalk, behind which sit an array of hotels, bars and restaurants. Most of the hotels offer a luau, a traditional feast encompassing a buffet, music, hula and other Polynesian entertainments. Burn off the calories with a spot of snorkelling at Fort DeRussy Beach, where a coral reef sits just beyond the waves, or take a surfing lesson at Kuhio Beach.
Most postcards of Waikiki Beach feature the sand in the foreground and Diamond Head in the background. This towering hill is a reminder of Hawaii’s volcanic origins. Diamond Head is an extinct crater, and it’s a tough climb up the solidified lava with plenty of steps. It’s best left to those with strong legs and a head for heights, but the view across Honolulu and the Pacific for those who do reach the summit makes the burning thighs worthwhile.
Those who venture away from busy Honolulu and Oahu find that the pace of life is slower, but natural wonders are just as impressive. On the island of Maui, rent a car and drive the road to Hana. This 80-kilometre (50-mile) stretch winds along the coast and can be done in a couple of hours, but it is best to take all day to admire the beaches and lush waterfalls that run downhill from Koolau Forest Reserve. Beyond Hana, the road surface is suitable only for off-road vehicles, but it does lead to the Oheo Gulch Pools. Canny tourist operators nicknamed these the Seven Sacred Pools, although they’re not actually sacred and there are far more than seven. Still, don’t let that stop you enjoying a dip in the clear waters, and swimming beneath the waterfalls that feed the pools.
The island of Hawaii (Big Island to the locals) is, unsurprisingly, the largest in the archipelago. Hotfoot it to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, the best place to explore the islands’ fiery beginnings. Marvel at the steamy spectacle of Kilauea, one of the most active volcanoes in the world, by cruising the Crater Rim Drive. Then enjoy an unusual underground view of a volcano by walking through the Thurston Lava Tube, which was emptied of molten rock a few centuries ago. However, be aware that this is still an active volcanic zone, and roads are often closed due to lava flows and ongoing eruptions.
Those in search of further adventures can explore Waimea Canyon and the Na Pali Coast State Park on the garden isle of Kauai, the former leper colony on the friendly isle of Molokai, or the traditional culture of the pineapple isle of Molokai once wholly owned by the Hawaiian Pineapple Company to grow the exotic fruit.
However, it’s a mistake to cram too much in to a Hawaiian trip. Don’t forget to leave to time do very little. With 1,210 kilometres (750 miles) of coastline, every island has a surplus of beaches to choose from. Soak up the year-round sun, sip a cocktail and enjoy the hospitality of Hawaii’s famously friendly people. After all, this is the Aloha State, best enjoyed the aloha way.