Kyoto’s Imperial Palace
Visitors can easily slip back 150 years in the Imperial Park that surrounds the former Imperial Palace. Until the Emperor moved to Tokyo in 1868, the spacious grounds were home to more than 100 aristocrats. Today, their names are inscribed on markers scattered among the large boulders and stately old trees, the remains of their private estates and gardens.
Today, much of the parkland is public student sports groups jog outside the wall of the inner palace, parents mind barefooted toddlers wading in the narrow stream in the southwest side, dog walkers meet and chat along the large gravel covered paths. There are tennis courts, baseball mounds and a small court for gate ball, a croquet like sport popular with older people.
The two former Imperial residences, Kyoto Gosho in the center of the park and Sento Gosho in the southeast corner, require permission to enter, obtained from the Imperial Household Agency in the northwest corner.
The entrance gates to the inner palace are formidable structures, magnificent in their own right. The largest, Kenreimon, faces directly south and was accessible solely by the Emperor. The east gate, Kenshumon, was for the Empress. The architecture exemplifies the restrained beauty that is so characteristic of Japanese art and is a marvel of ancient carpentry traditions.
Twice a year, in the spring and fall, the inner palace is open to the public. The Shinshin den, or main building (destroyed by fire and rebuilt in 1855), is where new emperors are enthroned. Its gates are brilliant vermilion, but the inner palace buildings are of unpainted wood with huge, curved cypress bark roofs.
The smaller hall, the Shunkoden, contains the sacred mirror of the Imperial family, a symbol of Imperial presence used only on special occasions. It harkens back to ancient mythology when the sun goddess, Amaterasu no Mikami, emerged from a cave, bringing light back into the world. Shrine mirrors, often of bronze, reflect the light of the sun as it passes along the southern horizon, and remain one of the essential possessions of Shinto shrines.
The front courtyard of Shinshinden is of the purist white gravel. Japanese believe that in such sacred spaces, known as yuniwa, one can sense the presence of deities and it is here that they listen to the petitions of their devotees.
Entrance to the interior rooms is not permitted but its gardens are compact masterpieces of landscaping and worth seeing. The outer Imperial Park is also well maintained by the same special corps of specially trained gardeners. The plum, peach and cherry trees are among the most popular destinations in spring, and the park’s ponds and oldgrowth trees a haven for birds.
Opposite Open twice a year to the general public and upon request, the brilliant cinnabar colored doors of the former Imperial Palace reveal an expansive inner courtyard.
Below The outer walls of the palace are constructed of stone and clay, the five white lines denoting an Imperial dwelling. Massive gates, cypress bark roofs and slate gray funneled roof tiles belie Japan’s preference for understated design in carpentry and masonry skills.
This page Most traditional carpentry involves precise joinery, with scant use of nails, but when nails are used they are covered to enhance the integrity of the overall design. The red struts of the under eaves at left and the smooth curves of the cypress layered roof below show centurieslong skill in the handling of natural materials.